Alcohol formula

Dior reinvents J’Adore water-based and alcohol-free

In the south of France, just west of the billionaires’ paradise playground of Antibes, is a very special farmhouse, set on a sloping hillside that captures both the relentless Mediterranean sun and the gentle breezes that drift north from the Côte d’Azur. It is called Florapolis, or “city of flowers”. Christelle Archer, the owner of this serene and picturesque spot, quit her job in finance six years ago to pursue her dream of becoming a flower grower, and is now working to revive production of neroli, a derivative of the bitter orange tree, which was once the hallmark of the region. She has a very illustrious partner. “Every drop of neroli I produce,” she says, a branch overflowing with delicate star-shaped orange blossoms held gently in her hand, “is for Dior perfumes.” And this neroli makes its way into a simply revealing Dior perfume.

Harvest Bitter Orange Blossoms in Florapolis.


The new J’Adore Parfum D’Eau is the swan song of recently retired Dior perfumer François Demachy (subject of the excellent 2020 documentary, Nose), who aspired to create the first highly concentrated, alcohol-free fragrance – a composition, as he envisioned her, it would be nothing but water and flowers, the quintessence of purity and freshness. Alcohol is used in virtually all fine perfumes because without it, perfume ingredients are difficult to mix, their scent fades in a flash, and they tend to lack both stability and complexity. Born from a discovery made by a Japanese skincare laboratory, Dior’s innovative water-based formula involves a high-pressure nano-emulsion technique that results in an elegant, long-lasting blend of floral essential oils and of H20 requiring no chemical stabilizer. . It’s a unique formulation with an unexpected milky texture that sinks into the skin like a hydrating mist.

Without any alcohol interference, the flowers of J’Adore Parfum D’Eau – magnolia, jasmine, rose, honeysuckle and the radiant neroli of Florapolis – smell like they do in nature, with an ineffable aura of freshly picked greenery. and a softness true to a flower at the peak of its bloom. But here’s what makes the perfume really different: unlike traditional perfumes, J’Adore Parfum D’Eau has no base, middle or top notes. What you get from the first spritz is what stays with you until the scent wears off – a linear, long-lasting simultaneous bloom of flowers.

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Freshly picked orange blossoms at Florapolis.


Don’t expect J’Adore Parfum D’Eau to smell like J’Adore, Dior’s iconic bestseller. The fragrances share only a lush floral bouquet. Although they are united by common ingredients, Parfum D’Eau is lighter, more airy and, due to the way it melds with the pH of the skin, somehow more personal. In a way, the transparency of the fragrance echoes Dior’s efforts to become more transparent with sourcing.

Dior J’adore Eau de Parfum
Dior J'adore Eau de Parfum

Dior J’adore Eau de Parfum

And at its heart, it’s a supply story. In Nose, Demachy expressed the desire to leave a legacy of a truer bond between the house of Dior and the farmers who cultivate the precious raw materials that make Dior perfumes sing. Florapolis isn’t just a beautiful (and fragrant) place, it’s also the only place in France where wayward bitter orange trees will grow. At the end of the 19e and early 20e centuries, the area around Vallauris – a nearby village now known for its Picasso museum and collectible pottery – provided large quantities of neroli and orange blossom essence for perfumery, but that era has come to an end by a cataclysmic freeze in the 1950s. Four hundred of Florapolis’ trees are at least 100 years old, and Archer has both rehabilitated his old grove and planted more saplings, laying the foundation for the future by revitalizing the past. The same can be said for Demachy, who took inspiration from J’Adore, an instant classic when it launched in 1999, to create J’Adore Parfum D’Eau: a refreshing and modern fragrance born from the same roots.